Most pieces are crafted in 14k gold-filled, with select designs in sterling silver: jewelry you can truly live in, to the beach, into the water and out with friends after dark. Each metal brings its own finish to the shells, pearls and stones it holds.
Gold-filled and sterling silver, side by side: explore how each is made and the jewelry it becomes.
The metals
14k Gold-Filled
A bonded layer of real gold, made to be worn every day, in and out of the ocean.
What is 14k gold-filled?
Gold-filled jewelry is made by bonding a layer of real gold to a core of base metal with heat and pressure. It isn’t a coating that sits on top, but a solid layer of gold that becomes part of the metal. In the US, a piece can only be called gold-filled if that layer makes up at least 1/20 of the weight of its metal, which is why it is often marked “14/20” or “1/20 14K GF.”
14k has a warm gold color and is a little tougher than higher karats, a lovely balance for everyday wear. It won’t peel or crack, and with good care it can last as long as sterling silver, sometimes longer.
What is sterling silver?
Sterling silver is at least 92.5% pure silver, often stamped “925.” The rest is usually copper, which gives it strength. Because it is the same metal all the way through, there is no layer to wear away. Sterling does tarnish over time as it reacts with the air and your skin, which is natural, and a quick polish with a soft cloth renews its shine. Of the two, it is often the more accessible choice.
Gold-filled vs. gold-plated
Gold-plated jewelry has a very thin coating of gold over another metal, often less than a thousandth of a millimeter. With wear, especially on the back of a ring or near a clasp, it can rub through and expose the metal beneath, which may leave a green mark on the skin. It suits trends or occasional wear, but it is not made for daily life in the ocean and sun, so it isn’t used here. To see how each metal holds up in the ocean, shower and pool, read jewelry in water.
Gold-filled vs. PVD stainless steel
PVD (physical vapor deposition) bonds a fine gold-toned film to stainless steel in a vacuum. It is tougher than ordinary plating and holds up well in water, and it has become increasingly popular. Still, it is a surface coating, usually only a few microns thick, and not always real gold; many use a gold-colored compound instead. Stainless steel also can’t be resized or easily repaired.
Gold-filled is another material entirely: a thick, bonded layer of real 14k gold that wears like solid gold for years and can be polished, repaired and passed on.
Metal questions
Will gold-filled turn my skin green?
It shouldn’t. The thick layer of gold keeps the base metal away from your skin, unlike plating, which can wear through. If a piece ever looks dull, a little care brightens it again; the pearl and shell care guide shows how.
Is PVD gold the same as gold-filled?
No. PVD is a thin coating over stainless steel, sometimes real gold and sometimes a gold-colored compound. Gold-filled is a thick, bonded layer of real 14k gold, made to last for years.
What is gold vermeil?
Vermeil (pronounced ver-MAY) is sterling silver coated with gold of at least 10 karat, at least 2.5 microns thick. It is a step up from basic plating because of its sterling base, but it is still a plated layer rather than a bonded one.
Which metal should I choose?
Gold-filled, for the warmth of gold in a piece made to be worn every day for years. Sterling silver, for a cool, bright tone and a quick polish now and then. Gold-plated, for a trend piece worn once in a while.
