Freshwater Pearls & Keshi

Freshwater keshi pearl and cone shell necklaces worn down the back, hair in a bun, on the sand Lying on the sand by the water’s edge on Oʻahu with a monstera leaf, wearing freshwater keshi pearl necklaces

Freshwater pearls bring soft white and blush pink tones to each piece, worn on their own or paired with shells I find. From sculptural baroque forms to small, free-form keshi, their shapes add texture and movement.

Explore freshwater pearl jewelry, or choose a pearl as the starting point for a custom order.

Explore freshwater pearl types

Pink freshwater keshi pearls, each free-form with a soft, bright luster

Blush Keshi

White freshwater keshi pearls, free-form with a soft, bright luster

White Keshi

Petite white freshwater rice pearls, smooth and oval with fine rings

Petite Rice

How to identify a freshwater pearl

Freshwater pearls grow in a range of soft colors, including white, cream, pink, peach and lavender. Because most grow without a bead, they are solid nacre all the way through, which gives them a bright, reflective glow. Each one has its own shape, so no two pieces look quite the same. Baroque freshwater pearls are larger, with soft, irregular curves, while keshi are small and free-form, with a bright, almost wet-looking luster. Rice pearls are small and oval, often with fine rings around them.

Freshwater pearls are chosen for luster first, then for a shape and tone that suit the shells or stones they will sit beside.

Wearing a freshwater keshi pearl and cone shell necklace layered with a cone shell pendant, on the beach on Oʻahu

Freshwater pearl jewelry

Each pearl is drilled and set by hand: baroque pearls and keshi paired with cone shells, miters and cowries, or left to shine on their own. Pearls and shells simply belong together: both are made by the water, both are a little imperfect, and each has its own character. Every piece is handcrafted on the North Shore of Oʻahu, finished in 14k gold-filled, with select pieces and custom orders in sterling silver.

Standing in a calm lagoon on Oʻahu with a monstera leaf, wearing freshwater keshi pearl and cone shell jewelry

Pearls are soft, so a little care keeps them glowing. Put them on after lotion and perfume, wipe them with a soft cloth after wear, and rinse them in fresh water after an ocean swim. The pearl and shell care guide has more, or explore keshi pearl jewelry. New to pearls? Start with the Pearl Guide, or see how a piece comes together in The Inspiration, the Mood, the Details.

Freshwater pearl questions

Where are freshwater pearls from?

Freshwater pearls are cultured pearls grown in freshwater mussels, in lakes, ponds and rivers. Most are grown without a bead: a small piece of tissue is placed inside the mussel, and it slowly builds a pearl from layers of nacre, the same lustrous material that lines its shell. A single mussel can also grow many pearls at once, which is part of why freshwater pearls are often more accessible than saltwater pearls.

What are keshi pearls?

A keshi is a pearl that forms without a bead at its center, so it is solid nacre all the way through, which gives it its remarkable luster. The name comes from the Japanese word for poppy seed. In freshwater, nearly every pearl grows without a bead, so “keshi” is more of a trade name for small, irregular and especially lustrous pearls. Tahitian keshi come from the black-lipped pearl oyster and share its darker tones; read more in the guide to Tahitian pearls and keshi.

What is the difference between freshwater and Tahitian pearls?

Freshwater pearls grow in mussels in fresh water and are naturally white and pastel, usually solid nacre. Tahitian pearls grow in black-lipped pearl oysters in the saltwater lagoons of French Polynesia and are naturally dark, in grays, blacks and browns with overtones of green, blue, pink or purple. Some pieces pair the two, like a freshwater strand with a Tahitian pearl at its center.

How can you tell if a freshwater pearl is real?

Real pearls have small differences in shape, color and surface, even within a matched pair, and tiny marks and ripples are common. Some imitations have a painted coating that can chip or peel. Real nacre usually feels slightly gritty against a tooth, while many imitations feel smooth. Some freshwater pearls are dyed, so an unusual or very dark color is worth asking about. When in doubt, ask the seller what type of pearl you are buying and whether it has been treated.

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Choose a shell, pearl or gemstone from the guide as the starting point for a custom piece in 14k gold-filled or sterling silver. Not sure which one? Email me and I’ll help you explore the options.