Tahitian Pearls & Keshi

A smiling woman wearing a Tahitian pearl choker and a single Tahitian pearl drop necklace, holding an orange slice Waves breaking off the sand at Pipeline on the North Shore of Oʻahu

Tahitian pearls are a personal favorite for their luster and shifting colors, from silver and green to deep peacock, worn on their own or beside shells I find along Oʻahu’s shores.

A closer look at round, baroque and keshi pearls. Explore Tahitian pearl jewelry, or request a specific pearl through a custom order.

Explore Tahitian pearl types

Round Tahitian pearls in gray, black and peacock tones, with one rare light Tahitian pearl

Round

Baroque Tahitian pearls, each with its own irregular shape and overtone

Baroque

Free-form Tahitian keshi pearls with a soft, textural luster

Keshi

What are Tahitian pearls?

Tahitian pearls are saltwater cultured pearls, grown in black-lipped pearl oysters throughout the islands of French Polynesia.

Most form around a small implanted bead, which the oyster coats in layers of nacre, the same lustrous material that lines its shell. Cultured pearls are real pearls: people begin the process, and the oyster creates the nacre.

Color & overtones

Often called “black pearls,” Tahitian pearls hold a far wider palette. Their bodycolor can be gray, black or brown, with overtones of green, blue, pink or purple.

These layers of color shift as the light changes: some pearls glow deep green or peacock, while others lean silver or purple. Beside shells, they are chosen to complement one another or to create a gentle contrast. On rare occasions, a Tahitian pearl grows so light it almost resembles a freshwater pearl.

Smiling with eyes closed on the beach at Pipeline, wearing Tahitian pearl earrings and necklaces, an orange in each handA Tahitian pearl choker and single pearl necklace, worn, as she squeezes an orange by the ocean

Sourced from Tahiti

Every Tahitian pearl and keshi comes from a trusted supplier on Arutua, an atoll northeast of Tahiti, and is chosen for its luster and character. I drill the pearls myself, which allows more freedom in how each one is worked. Their individual shapes and tones guide each design.

Some pieces center entirely on pearls; others pair them with shells from my own dives. Each is made by hand at my workbench on the North Shore of Oʻahu, in 14k gold-filled, with select pieces and custom orders in sterling silver.

Explore Tahitian pearl jewelry, and learn how to care for your pearls so they keep their glow. Compare them with freshwater pearls, start with the Pearl Guide, or see how a piece comes together in The Inspiration, the Mood, the Details.

Mist drifting across the green peaks of Moorea, French Polynesia

Tahitian pearl questions

What’s the difference between round, baroque and keshi pearls?

The Tahitian pearls I work with include round and baroque pearls, alongside Tahitian keshi.

  • Round pearls have a spherical shape and a clean, classic feel.
  • Baroque pearls have irregular shapes, with distinctive curves and contours.
  • Keshi pearls form during cultivation without a retained bead nucleus. Composed mainly of nacre, they often have folds and uneven surfaces that add texture to a design.

Round and baroque describe shape; keshi describes how a pearl formed. A keshi pearl can also have a baroque shape. Tahitian keshi are cultured pearls too.

How is Tahitian pearl quality judged?

Luster, the brightness and sharpness of a pearl’s reflections, is the first thing I look for. From there, I consider its color, shape and surface, and how these work together within a design.

Small surface marks, rings and variations are common. Their extent matters when assessing quality, but a pearl doesn’t need a flawless surface to become a beautiful piece.

A pearl’s value reflects its size, shape, color, luster, surface, nacre quality and, in pieces with several pearls, how well they match. Size alone doesn’t determine quality.

The shape or color you’re drawn to is a personal choice. Each brings something different to the finished piece.

How can you tell if a Tahitian pearl is real?

A few details offer clues, though confirming a pearl’s type and any color treatment takes more than appearance alone.

  • Natural variation. Genuine pearls show subtle differences in color, shape and surface, even within a carefully matched strand.
  • Surface details. Small marks and irregularities are common in real pearls; some imitations have a painted coating that can chip or peel.
  • The tooth test. Real nacre usually feels slightly gritty against a tooth, while many imitations feel smooth. It won’t distinguish Tahitian pearls from other genuine pearls or reveal color treatments.
  • Color treatments. Some freshwater and other cultured pearls are dyed to resemble Tahitian pearls, so a dark color alone doesn’t make a pearl Tahitian.

When buying pearl jewelry, choose a seller who clearly explains the pearl type, its sourcing and any known treatments. For independent confirmation, a qualified gemological laboratory can identify the pearl and test for treatments.

How do you care for Tahitian pearls?

Gentle care preserves a pearl’s luster. Apply perfume and cosmetics before putting jewelry on, then wipe pearls with a soft cloth after wear. Store them apart from pieces that could scratch them, and keep them from harsh chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners and steam.

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